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[Aug. 31st, 2009|10:42 am] |
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| | Annie typing | ] | June 5: For our first full day in Paris we got up early and were on the streets by 9:30. We took the subway as we had walked to the center of town the previous day and wanted to get there faster. We went directly to the Louvre, figuring the earlier we'd get there the less tourists we'd have to contend with and the more time we could spend. Once inside we made a bee line for the major works first (i.e. - Venus de Milo, Mona Lisa, etc.) as those galleries tended to fill up the fastest over the course of the day. Here's Annie with Ms. Lisa.
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After we'd seen the big pieces, we decided to just wander around aimlessly for a while instead of heading for any specific rooms. This way we got an interesting mix of the different kinds of exhibits they had from different periods and eras. One of the first rooms we ran into was an interesting exhibition detailing the planning and building of the Louvre itself. It included original building shots, adding the pyramid, art that had pictures of the Louvre in it, etc. Really interesting. The other special exhibit we ran into was a photographic history of the Louvre during WWII. The pictures contained how the Louvre was protected during the bombings (sandbags over the windows, etc.), the packing up and moving out of art to keep safe, and the Nazis looting the place. Most of the Nazi high command by the end of the war had paintings from the Louvre hanging in their homes. After the war there was a problem locating all the missing pieces and then figuring out what belonged to whom. NAZIS IN THE LOUVRE!
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The funniest part of the exhibition was the captions that went along with all the pictures. Next to one of the pictures it talked about how the city "liberated itself" in August 1944. If by "itself" they meant "with the help of a few other countries fighting for them" then I agree. Writing it doesn't make it true, France.
We continued walking about. Lots of the displays were of course interesting, but we were slightly annoyed that it was difficult to get more information about every piece. Of course, the displays were all in French and that makes sense as we were in France. However, there was limited information available in English unless you got a headset to walk around with. Some rooms had placards you could walk around with that described some of the paintings, but they were usually in use and only described a few of the pieces. That's why I don't know much about this next piece, only that it's amazing.
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Annie really liked how open the museum was. If you were an art student you were allowed to set up shop in the middle of the corridors to copy some of the paintings.
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It was close to here that we wanted to get a couple shot in the Louvre. We really liked the mirror behind the Egyptian guy.
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We made it all the way down to the lowest level and found the footprints of the original building, which I liked since it gave more of a history to the building itself and not just the pieces of art inside it. It was also in the bottom floor they had a tactile display which let you touch some of the art pieces.
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We were hungry after walking around so much so decided to grab lunch in the cafe. The prices weren't crazy and we received huge portions of food. For less than I would have paid in a restaurant we got huge slabs of freshly cooked ham with a number of vegetables and small bottles of wine. I'd recommend it!
We only went to two more exhibitions after lunch. On the top floor was a reconstruction of Napoleon's apartments. It was a series of lavishly decorated rec rooms and bedrooms and such. Here is the chair Napoleon sat in when presiding over court functions. You can tell it's his because of the subtle monogram on the cushion.
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While walking back to the stairwell we had an excellent view of the plaza through the windows of Napoleon's apartments.
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The last thing we saw before leaving was Hammurabi's Code, which was a giant stone block with the first set of written laws carved on it. Wanting to end on a historical note, we decided to take our leave. All in all, we spent about four hours walking around the place, and definitely didn't see everything.
We hopped back on the subway as we had an all day pass and went to the stop marked "Bastille". There we found the road called Bastille and the Opera house where the original fortress had been. While walking around we found a park near Victor Hugo's house that we sat down in for a bit and watched some kids playing. Afterwards, we went back to the hotel to rest up for the evening.
Around seven we headed back out to near the Arch/Eiffel Tower area to attend the show at the Crazy Horse. We got our own little booth off to the side of the stage which was perfect since it gave us a clear view of everything and no one to bother us. Included in the price was a bottle of champagne, which we enjoyed over the course of the evening. Before the show started we were reading a list of names on the wall of some of the people who had been here. It included famous actors, musicians, entertainers, politicians, etc. After settling in for about twenty minutes, the show began. It was an all-nude burlesque show broken up into different segments. Each segment the girls were "dressed" and danced to a particular theme. Some of the themes included were: Pirates, English guards, an elaborate spinning circle in the middle of the stage with two girls dancing on it, a swing, the Great Depression, and a jungle cat caught in a cage. The show was interspersed with video from the history of the theater in-between each segment. Also, at one point in the second act, a guy came out and did shadow puppets for about ten minutes. It was quite a non sequitur, so we figured it was a stall for time while they took care of some issue backstage. The dancing was pretty phenomenal, and the nudity wasn't raunchy at all, but rather just a part of the experience.
We stepped outside to see the Eiffel Tower lit up and glowing for the evening. We hopped back on the subway and went home for some candy bars and sleep.
June 6: Slept in a bit today following the late night show. When we finally got down to the subway to buy our day passes, the woman asked Annie how old she was. She was young enough to score a youth pass, which made her happy and me feel old.
Our first stop for the day was O'Chateau. We had booked a wine and cheese lunch that was being held in the former basement of Louis XV's sommelier (French for guy who chooses the wines at meals).
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The host for the event was funny but spoke very quickly. While we ate he gave a brief history of the wine industry and showed us the different areas of France that produced wine while comparing them to wine's from around the world. He introduced each bottle that was served with our meal (we had six total, including some champagne) and taught us how to properly taste each one to get its full effect. He also showed us how to look at the wines to see the difference in amount of sugar, viscosity, age, etc. The people we took the lunch with were nice, a mix of Irish, Americans, English, and Spanish. In addition to the wines there were a number of cheeses, each suggested to matched with a specific bottle, along with bread and sliced meats. My favorite was the camembert because I like soft cheese.
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Feeling a bit tipsy following the lunch, we decided to take it easy and not do anything too touristy. We rode the subway to the Gare Nord station, where we reserved our Chunnel tickets for going back to England. We saved money by buying round trip tickets as the one way tickets were more expensive for some reason. Round trip tickets came out to be half the price of the one ways. Weird.
Once we had our tickets, we headed over to the Cemetery du Montparnasse. It is one of the two main cemeteries in the city proper. It was full of many family crypts erected quite close together to save space. There was a map in the front showing the location of some of the more famous graves. We didn't go out of our way, but managed to find Sartre's grave near the entrance.
Since we'd been walking around so much, we thought it'd be nice to just relax for a few hours. We ended up near the Arch again and were on the Champs de Elysses so we decided to take in a movie, as this was where most of the English language theatres were. We went into one cinema that had a gigantic, beautiful theatre. The screen was huge, the ceiling was domed. It was amazing. Unfortunately, the beauty was ruined by Terminator: Salvation.
After the movie, we got on the subway again because Annie wanted to see where the Moulin Rouge was. At the subway stop we finally took a picture of the scary, alien-type sign that showed the entrance to all of the subway stops.
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The exterior of the Rouge was not as impressive as Annie had hoped for. As we walked through that part of town back towards our hotel, we realized that the Moulin Rouge was in its own special area of Paris.
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Sex shops were everywhere! In hindsight, it kind of makes sense, but it was surprising at the time without knowing it was coming. We made it back to our area of town and sat down for a nice meal of Belgian mussels, as there was a Belgian restaurant right by our hotel. Following that, we went to sleep.
June 7: We got up early once again because we had two main things we wanted to do that day. First up we headed for the center of town to find the entrance to the catacombs that ran under Paris. The line was short since we were there so early so it didn't take too long to get inside. Once you entered at the street level, you descended 133 stairs straight down. We walked through the first few tunnels with no problem, as they were mainly just stone corridors.
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Along the way there were various signs telling you where you were in relation to the streets above.
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I was surprised that I didn't get very claustrophobic, given how low the ceiling was in some areas. Sometimes, it was only Doug-high.
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As we walked along, there were some pretty amazing sights. In one area there were large stone models carved into the walls. The original diggers had done this in their spare time. The coolest part of this was that all the sculpting was highly detailed and done solely from memory.
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There were underground waterways that scared the heck out of me, as you could see how deep the wells went.
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And then occasionally the corridor would open up into giant domed archways. These supported some of the main crossroads of the tunnel while also giving you a break from the feeling that the walls were closing in around you since the ceilings were so high in these areas.
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And that's when the skeletons started.
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The walls for the rest of the catacombs were composed of millions of bones from previous occupants of the city. The walls were laid out in such a way that the bones fit neatly together and wasted no space.
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Sometimes the walls were just femurs and arm bones. Sometimes they were skulls. Sometimes mixed!
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In some places the architects decided to get a little fancy. So, not only walls, but also columns and supports were constructed with bones surrounding them.
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It was difficult to take pictures in the corridors. The lighting wasn't the best and I was playing around with my camera's aperture, so some shots were dark. This wasn't one of the best shots, but it shows an underground chapel that was built so the workers could have services held in memory of what was going on around them.
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Finally, we found one area that had enough light for good pictures. So we took a couple shot. Here's us and a large number of dead people.
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Once we exited the catacombs, we realized how hungry we were. It was about a 1.7 kilometre walk to get through the whole complex. Of course, that thought was immediately driven from my mind as the giant ball of flaming gas in the sky burned the retinas out of my sockets following their prolonged exposure to minimal light underground. For the next few minutes we blundered our way down the street, nearly blind, hoping not get mugged. Once vision returned, we stopped in a small cafe for some sandwiches and pain au chocolat. After that, we got on the light rail and took a trip to our last sight, Versailles!
When we got to the palace it was about a thirty minute wait in line to get tickets, which I didn't think was too bad because on busy days it supposedly takes hours to get inside. Once inside the building, however, we kind of lost focused. It was just like a lot of the other galleries and museums we'd seen, only this one was in a palace. That didn't make it different enough to keep our attention, as we'd seen so many similar things recently. We were hoping for more history. Where the servants slept, how meals were prepared, life at court, etc. Instead, it was mostly art galleries and preserved rooms. And compared to the Louvre from two days before, they weren't laid out nearly as well. Still, the building itself was quite pretty. Couple shot!
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My favorite picture from the day was of Annie. We were in the king's bedroom and I wanted to take a picture of the ornate grandfather clock in the corner. She thought I had the king's bed in the frame. Cuteness ensued.
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There were only two rooms that were very interesting. There was a giant cathedral built into the palace near the king's chambers. It was a few stories high and you could see into it from different levels while walking through the palace. The other room we liked was the hall of mirrors. It didn't have as many mirrors as I thought it would, ironically, but I could see how beautiful the room would be during sunrise or sunset since all the mirrors faced huge windows that let in plenty of light. Couple shot!
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After the inside o f the palace we took a cursory glance over the gardens, which were beautiful, but would cost extra to enter. As it was starting to get a bit rainy and we were tired from all our walking, we decided to just head back to town. Once near our hotel, we sat down for a nice, authentic French meal Annie had been wanting to try since we got there.
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After that we went back to the hotel for some internet and final packing before our road trip was over. |
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